Series I
HAPPY FACE ACIDS –WHAT ARE THEY?
Oh my goodness acids on the skin? Who would use acid for their skin, right? Is that not what you are thinking? Hmmm, true…Acids can be quite frightening if you do not know about them.
When I was new to the world of beauty and wellness, I was literally in a surprise of everything. And when I heard Acids on the skin! I was like shut-up! Get moving! Who are you kidding?
I still remember thinking about my chemistry lab, the pipettes, the beakers with the chemical mixtures and wait for any explosions if we could make.
And then my thoughts ran straight to my mother’s kitchen sink closet where all these acidic cleaners were stacked. And I was wondering like really can we use them to squeaky-clean the face.
So when you know nothing about the acids this is how scary thoughts start running in your head. Oh! Do not worry; thank goodness I did not use any acids from the lab or the kitchen to clean my face.
Over a period of time, beauty industry and scientific technology have merged to further advance skincare products and regime, many clinical trials have been conducted to introduce a different range of ingredients and products that can be used in skincare.
Hydroxy acids have transformed skincare since their introduction to dermatology.
Whether you are a certified professional or a newbie, we all could use some information on the use of Acids on skin.
Throughout my professional career, I came across experiences and have met people who were scared or knew little about acids. And this is what inspired me to Blog Face Acids.
Do not worry am not conducting a chemistry lecture but rather something you can relate to and it is simple to understand how Face Acids can give us a Happy and Healthy Skin appearance.
Acids in beauty and cosmetics can be used for various reasons like to balance out acne, age spots, scarring, uneven skin tone, and reduce the visibility of fine lines. Some of these acids provide benefits of firming and brightening of the skin. These have to penetrate the skin to act on living cells to give desired and effective results.
But, with so many acids available in the market, you definitely do not want to pick up the wrong one.
Note-Prolonged use of any acids is not recommended. They have their pros and cons. Always consult a a licensed dermatologist before using any Face Acids. Refer to the * word of caution and the Disclaimer mentioned in this blog.
Let us take a sneak preview and get started to know our friendly Happy Acids better!
*A word of caution that the content provided in this blog is for information and not a prescribtion for use. Before use of any of these face acids in your daily routine always request for a consultation and for clinical supervision by licensed dermatologist only.
HAPPY FACE ACIDS –WHAT ARE THEY?
Happy Face Acids used in treatments of skin disorders are called Hydroxy acids or they are known as fruit acids too.
They are some of the most widely used, studied and clinically tested that have shown the effectiveness of these ingredients in minimizing the effects of photoaging and reducing fine lines, skin elasticity, tone, and hydration. There are two acid kinds most popularly used in the beauty world and they are called as:
[1] AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and
[2] BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid)
And, now the[third]one that is gaining popularity is PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acid) known as NEXT generation of AHA.
These 3 are well researched and used for the cosmetic benefit and they are a collection of organic compounds made from familiar food or plant products. They are available naturally as well as are produced synthetically. They are used in beauty products to improve the overall look and feel of the skin giving it a healthy appearance.
KEY ROLE OF HYDROXY ACIDS
The key role of these Hydroxy Acids is to unglue the cellular bond that makes dead skin cells stick together. Once these acids have performed their important role of weakening this bond, then it proceeds to the next level called exfoliation, meaning that it systematically loosens and separates the dead skin cells from the skin surface, revealing younger skin cells resulting in smooth and healthy skin appearance.
Exfoliation means to remove the unwanted and dead cells from the top layer of the skin. That does not mean if you keep looking at it, you will see the dead cells falling apart from your skin. The activity of exfoliation will continue and unseen by our naked eye.
CONCENTRATION% OF HYDROXY ACIDS IN BEAUTY
Concentration% -Hydroxy Acids at medium to higher concentrations can also function beyond the surface of the skin and modulate the epidermal and dermal layers to deliver additional results, such as collagen and elastin restoration, pigment lightening and keeping the dark spots by melanin far, far and away.
For your benefit, in Series II, I have prepared a structured “My Face Acid Buddy” sheet for all 3 Hydroxy Acids that shall help you understand information on each hydroxyl acid at one glance.
Series II
My Face Acid Buddy” sheet for all 3 Hydroxy Acids
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS
| Commercial Name | Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) |
|---|---|
| Source | Natural acids from foods. |
| Skin Disorder | Preferred for dry skin, photo damaged, pigmentation, wrinkles andacne too. |
| Characteristics | AHA’s are made up of tiny molecules of water loving and water soluble acids. |
| Process | They work by melting the intercellular glue that holds our skin cells together, to help the skin’s natural shedding process. They work both on dermal and epidermal layer of skin. |
| How it works on skin | When applied to the skin, AHAs stimulate the exfoliation of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum by interfering with the ionic bonding between these cells. This results in the sloughing off dull and rough skin and promotes cellular renewal. |
| USP | The well-known benefits are exfoliation, moisturization, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, collagen synthesis, firming and skin lightening. |
| Caution | Alpha hydroxy acids at a concentration of 10% or less as a lotion or cream are likely safe for most people when applied to the skin appropriately and as directed, by your dermatalogist. AHA can also cause mild skin irritation, redness, swelling, itching, and skin discoloration. In some people, AHA can make the skin extra sensitive to sunlight. Be sure to use a sunscreen while using alpha hydroxy acid products. Avoid use of acids during Pregnancy and breast-feeding. |
BETA HYDROXY ACIDS
| Commercial Name | Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) |
|---|---|
| Source | Derivative from Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), Biosynthesis of Willow bark extract. |
| Skin Disorder | Preferred for Oily skin, acne prone, inflammation, pigmentation and dandruff. |
| Characteristics | BHA is known to be lipid soluble. It simply means oil-loving acid. |
| Process | BHA is preferred for oily, acne-prone skin and for treating black heads and whiteheads. BHA can get through the oil that clogs pores and helps to normalize the lining of the pore that contributes to acne. BHAs have no humectant properties and can be drying so they are great for people with oily skin because they don’t make your face oilier. |
| How it works on skin | When applied on skin BHA is able to exfoliate the upper layer of skin, and also penetrate deep through the epidermis to exfoliate the dead skin cells and excess oil built up in the pores. For this reason, BHA is used to treat blackheads, whiteheads and acne. It also functions as both an antimicrobial and an anti-inflammatory agent, making it ideal for acne. |
| USP | Mainly works as an exfoliant, but also act as an anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, anti-dandruff agent, hair conditioning agent, and skin conditioning agent. BHA is a truly versatile skincare ingredient with multipurpose usage. |
| Caution | It’s imperative that anyone using this ingredient apply a broad spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen every morning, wait 30 minutes before going outside, and reapply every couple of hours. Avoid use of acids during Pregnancy and breast-feeding. |
POLY HYDROXY ACIDS
| Commercial Name | Poly Hydroxy Acid (PHA) [known as new generation of AHA] |
|---|---|
| Source | Natural acids from foods. |
| Skin Disorder | Preferred for dry & dehydrated skin, pigmentation, inflammation and wrinkles. |
| Characteristics | PHA has bigger molecular size. |
| Process | PHA has a larger molecular structure than AHA, which means it penetrates the skin more slowly and therefore doesn’t exfoliate as powerfully as acids with a smaller molecular structure. |
| How it works on skin | When applied on skin PHA have slow penetration and absorption rate, which makes them gentle enough to use perfect for all types of sensitive and/or dry skin conditions. They can also function as antioxidants and may promote some amount of improvement in skin’s surface strength. |
| USP | Mature skin can also benefit from the antioxidant properties which protect the skin’s’ collagen from breaking down. PHAs are rich in antioxidants and they also stimulate epidermal growth and repair, meaning your skin will appear plumper and less wrinkly. PHAs, don’t increase your skin’s sun sensitivity. Your skin already has iron, but too much can encourage it to age at a speedier pace. PHAs “chelate,” or render the extra iron biologically inactive, thereby removing yet another element that can make your skin appear older than it actually is. |
| Caution | PHAs are considered safe for everyone, including people with sensitive skin, rosacea, or eczema, because ultimately, PHAs are a reparative ingredient. |
COMMON BENEFITS OF HYDROXY ACIDS
Some of the Common Benefits of Hydroxy Acids are:
- They all work as skin exfoliants that remove dead skin cells
- Improve overall skin texture
- Balance out the uneven skin tone
- Reduce the appearance of larger pores and surface fine lines
- Unclog pores and cleanse the debris
Whoosh! There you go you have crossed the first hurdle, and atleast you know that there are 3 different friendly acid kinds used in the beauty and cosmetics industry. Does it make you feel better?
Good! But, this is just the tip of the iceberg and we are just starting. We shall explore further in Series III where we look at the Top 3 most popular face acids used in beauty regime, and facial services that help us attain a clean, supple and gives fresh skin appearance.
Series III
TOP THREE MOST POPULAR FACE ACIDS-USED IN SKIN CARE REGIME
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Salicylic Acid-(Beta Hydroxy Acid-BHA)Is well known for its ability to exfoliate the skin and keep pores clear, which helps reduce acne. You’ll find it in serums and cleansers at concentrations between 0.5 and 2 percent, as well as in spot treatments for breakouts.Salicylic acid is also used in higher concentrations as a peeling agent for treating acne, acne scars, melasma, sun damage, and age spots in dermatology clinics.Due to its Keratolytic (peeling) nature it is so effective in use of wart and corn removal solutions.Benefits: Salicylic acid can be effective in various forms in daily homecare regime women as well as men in form of: spot gel, face wash, peels, creams, cleanse-pads, etc.There are also foundations and concealers that contain salicylic acid, which can reduce shine and treat acne throughout the day.Direction: You may use salicylic acid in your morning and evening routines but should make sure an SPF is always included in your daily routine (because salicylic acid is an exfoliant, it will increase your skin’s sensitivity to UV).Caution: Overuse may lead to salicylic poisoning. Limit its use to affected areas (spots) only. Salicylic can interfere with your medicines; always speak to your dermatologist before you start using salicylic acid.Always, consult your dermatologist before using any of the Face Acids.
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Lactic Acid-(Alpha Hydroxy Acid-AHA)Is the most favoured acid for your face care regime, especially if you are looking to improve our skin texture, balance out the uneven skin tone, moisturize it and increase the hydration levels.Source of lactic acid is milk. That does not mean we can all jump into an over-soak tub filled with milk and dream of Egyptian Queen Cleopatra’s Beauty regime.Lactic acid can be used as peels or products like cleansers or exfoliants or serums to customize your skin care system.Benefits: It gently exfoliates skin and removes dead skin cells and is considered good option for the sensitive skin as it helps soothe dry skin. It is also used to treat hyperpigmentation and sunspots, making your skin appear even.Direction: Over-the-counter lactic acid products vary widely in concentration, from 5 percent to more than 30 percent. A higher percentage isn’t always better. If you’ve never used over-the-counter lactic acid before, start off with a very low strength product of 5 percent to 10 percent max. This will let you see how your skin reacts to lactic acid, and also allow your skin some time to get used to the acid.You may find that after using up the product that you have, you’re happy with the results you’ve gotten. In that case, you can stick with the strength you’ve been using.If you’d like to go up in strength, do it slowly. Always monitor your skin for irritation, and if it seems like it’s too much for you back it off or go back to a lower strength product.You should check with your dermatologist before using any lactic acid treatment.Caution: Though lactic acid is considered to be the gentle, but once you start using lactic acid then there is a possibility of your skin becoming vulnerable to sun-sensitivity and hence you are recommended to use a sunscreen SPF 30 or more to keep your skin protected from any sunburn.Also, avoid use of lactic acid (or for that matter any acid) if you are under the prescribed use of any topical Retinoids. These products are already exfoliating your skin, so there’s no need to double up with a lactic acid product. If you do, you’ll over-sensitize your skin.
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Glycolic Acid-(Alpha Hydroxy Acid-AHA)Is one of the most popular alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) used in skincare. It comes from sugar cane, and is the smallest AHA, so it’s the most effective at getting into the skin.Benefits: Glycolic acid is a fantastic age-defying agent that seems to do it all.It’s very effective at exfoliating skin and reducing fine lines, preventing acne, fading dark spots, increasing skin thickness, and evening out skin tone and texture. The best part is that it penetrates deep through the layers of your skin, making it more effective in addressing your skin issues. So it’s no surprise that you’ll find it in many skin care products. It’s commonly found at concentrations below 10 percent. Glycolic acid is also a good humectant. It draws water from the atmosphere onto your skin, allowing it to stay soft and hydrated.Much like salicylic acid, glycolic acid is also used in peels for treating acne and pigmentation.Direction: When looking for over-the-counter glycolic acid products, look for something with 8-10 percent strength, as the products available over the counter will have much lower acid concentrations than those available in a medical setting.Professional Dermatologists may use professional content that may vary between 50 percent and more. The higher content is to be used only under clinical supervision by licensed dermatologist only.Caution: Use of glycolic acid increases sun sensitivity even when it’s not on the skin, so you need to use sunscreen as well to prevent extra sun damage.Never mix face acids as the products could either work against each other or make the other product less effective.As great as acids are, they can potentially make skin more sensitive to UV rays. Therefore, it’s important to end your skincare routine with SPF 30 or higher.Hope you have enjoyed this Blog on Face Acids. Kindly note that refer to any face acids must be used only under consultation and clinical supervision of a licensed dermatologist. Please refer to the Disclaimer below.To learn more about spaEdx –a comprehensive spa education training programme, visit us at spawithrutu.com or contact us at hello@spawithrutu.com , and enroll for the learning modules of your choice from spaEdx programme that teaches you skills for day-to-day spa operations and business education.Thank you and wishing you a very Happy Learning and Successful Spa & Wellness Career.Disclaimer : This blog information about Face Acids made available on this site offers information for spa and wellness, and the possible products that may be used in professional beauty and skincare regime and this blog information is designed solely for reading purposes only.You should not rely on this blog information as a substitute for, nor does it replace professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. If you have any concerns or questions about your skinhealth, you should always consult with a medical professional, physician or other health-care professional.Nothing stated or posted on this site or available through any blog are intended to be, and must not be taken to be, the practice of medical or counselling care. It is your responsibility to evaluate the accuracy, completeness or usefulness of any information, opinion, advice or other content contained on the site, in our blogs or otherwise by us or a representative of our organization. The use of any information provided on this site is solely at your own risk.